We left mid afternoon on a Thursday with the intention of getting just a few hours of driving under our tires and so that it would really feel like vacation! We'd planned on just leaving early Friday morning for a big, long day of driving but when Ryan's work schedule allowed him to be home on Thursday, we pivoted our plan and set out for Tomah, Wisconsin, just about 3 hours north of home. We stayed in a KOA that night, our first ever, and honestly it was just what we needed for the one night. They had a small pool, which the kids loved, we made up dinner, poured our first vacation drinks and waited for Chris and Brenna and Ro to meet up with us. While our trip had an ever rotating and changing cast of characters along with us, for the most part Chris/Brenna/Ro were with us the entire trip. We love vacationing with them and the cousin time was perfect for all three girls.
The next day we had a LONG drive ahead of us. Throughout the entire trip we had a total of 4 big big driving days. Days where we needed to put 450-550 miles behind us and this first Friday was one such day. Our plan had us going from Tomah, Wisconsin to Kennebec SD, just a few short hours outside of Custer/the Black Hills. We left early Friday morning and headed west until we spotted signs for the SPAM museum, in located in Austin, MN. It was probably a little early in the day (trip) to be making random roadside stops but we were all having fun, we weren't tired of driving yet, and I'd already declared this summer the "summer of yes" so we decided to pull off and see what we could see.
Honestly guys, this place was pretty cool. For being a random museum in a random town in MN, I was impressed with the interactive displays and all of the stuff there was to see and do inside the museum. It looked brand new and there were so many things to read (about SPAM! Who knew!?). Of course we couldn't leave without picking up a few cans to try out later in the trip. The overall consensus was, not bad, not great. We're all glad we tried it, but it likely won't become a staple meal in any of our houses :) .
Back on the road again, there weren't any more fun roadside stops that day that needed mention, but we DID start planning for our stop the next morning at Wall Drug. Both Ryan and I remembered visiting Wall Drug when we were kids doing this same trip, but somehow neither Chris, nor Brenna, had any idea what we were talking about - so, we knew we'd need to make a stop.
In Kennebec we stayed at another KOA, where they had another pool (though this one was quite chilly!) The kids needed to get their wiggles out though, after about 10 hour of driving and I know we all were ready to be out of the truck. Kennebec was another quick, one night stop on our way west and the next morning we got up fresh and ready for a much shorter drive, only 3ish more hours to Custer where we'd stay for 3 full nights.
We pulled off to stop at Wall Drug around 10 on Saturday morning, got some donuts, did some quick shopping (I bought the girls both a necklace of Black Hills gold, a memory I wanted to re-create for them from my childhood) and THANKFULLY we checked our National Park stamp book before leaving Wall, because we nearly missed the Badlands and our very first park stamp of the trip. I mean, I knew the Badlands were close and that we'd see them as part of the trip, but in my mind (from being a kid) we'd just seen the Badlands as we drove west (it wasn't a special pull off we needed to make). There was some confusion with Chris and Brenna and they'd gotten back on the highway before we realized we wanted to swing through the Badlands so our car ended up doing that part of the trip solo as Chris and Brenna continued to make their way west to Custer.
I'm so glad we realized and took the time to drive through the Badlands. It was HOT that day, over 100 as we drove through what I can only describe as looking at the Moon, or Mars. The Badlands was soooo cool, cooler than I remember as a kid. I wish we'd have been able to get out and hike, even just for a little bit, but it was much too hot, we had the camper behind us, and we knew we needed to keep heading west. While we were at it though, we hit up the Minuteman Missile site right near the Badlands. Two stamps in one day (and two that we almost missed). I wasn't going to make that mistake again, and we checked our park book almost daily as we traveled to be sure we weren't missing anything.
I wish we'd have had more time to explore around both the Badlands and the Missile site. But, now we know for next time, likely when we're both retired and can work on a little bit more flexible schedule.
Our campsites in Custer were cool! We stayed right inside the state park and camped at Stockade North campground. We had electric only hookups (which is what we're used to) and we were all so impressed with how spread out the campground was and how quite it was there! Definitely something to redo another time. Though, Dad swears by Blue Bell Lake, should we ever get an opportunity to book again (making notes for my future travel planning self!).
Our experiences over the next three parks with crowds and the big attractions is pretty much the same, and, if you're asking us about our vacation I'm sure you'll hear us say that we felt a little bit like were were at Disney. Not the cool, most magical place on earth part of Disney though, the long lines, long waits, too many people part of Disney that we hate! All of the parks we visited were super crowded...and the big sites, like Mt. Rushmore, Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic, Wind/Jewel Cave were packed with people all trying to do and see the same things we were (of course!). In each of the parks though we were able to find at least one thing that was out of the way and far less traveled. We'd find hikes or drives or things to do that had less people and less hubbub - but my overarching advice for those of you going on a trip similar to this one - plan your days around the big things you want to see, start early, pack your patience and do your research about some things that are lesser known so you can get a break from the crowds.
Ok - back to the trip. While in Custer we saw Mt. Rushmore, did the wildlife loop drive, drove the Iron Mountain Road (SO COOL!), attempted to see Crazy Horse (too expensive, $35 per person and according to Ryan it looks the same today as it did 30 years ago when we went), hiked, panned for gold (unsuccessfully) and the kids both bought their first (of many) stuffed animal souvenirs.
In fact, we visited Mt. Rushmore on the 4th of July! Seemed patriotic (and busy!). The kids were bummed because they'd been looking forward to fireworks since last year when we missed going to the lake for the 4th (all three of us girls were sick and my COVID test didn't come back until the holiday weekend was over) and everything we'd heard about fireworks in SD was that they weren't happening because of the draught and fire danger and burn restrictions. They were bummed because they both really wanted to see fireworks - as was I. Did you know that the 4th of July is my favorite holiday? I love seeming all the beautiful fireworks, and the summer months are so fun, packed with friends and family and bonfires and grilling out and swimming and long days.
Anyways, after seeing Mt. Rushmore we'd decided to try and eat dinner in Custer which meant a long wait and a much later dinner time than we'd planned, but, it really all worked out because as we were walking to our truck to head back to camp and put the kids to bed we noticed people sitting in fold out chairs camped behind cars, all looking in the same direction. We had every indication that they were setting up for fireworks so in a moment of whimsy (did I tell you that that's another goal of mine this year, to live with whimsy), we decided to stay put and watch the fireworks.
The kids loved everything about this last minute change in plans. They got to stay up late (really late), watch fireworks, sit on the top of the truck and hopefully they'll remember that we were cool parents!! We got home way to late that night but I don't regret our choice even a little bit. It was the prefect ending to the first leg of our trip. Up next, Yellowstone!